In Search of Beethoven's Vienna (my recent trip)

[Ed C]

The first part of a 5-part blog topic is up about my recent trip to Vienna. After it's all done (still typing part 2) I'll post a summary here as well.

http://lvbandmore.blogspot.com/2010/...vienna-pt.html

In short, I spent as much time as conjugally possible tracking down Beethoven's homes and haunts during a week in Vienna. It was a great experience and there's definitely room for a second trip (jealous of Philip that he made it into a couple places I didn't ) but in the end I came to the conclusion that Beethoven "lives" anywhere his music is heard. Also I smuggled home a rock from in front of the Pasqualati house. So Beethoven lives on my desk as well

[Peter]

Very much enjoyed your blog which reminded me of my trip in 2003. Your remark about the Viennese speaking English brought a smile to my face as I recall being very proud of asking in German where the Theater an der Wien was, only to be told by an American couple they didn't speak German!!

You may like to read my experiences which included a recreation at the Theater an der Wien of the Dec 1808 concert.
www.lvbeethoven.co.uk/vienna2003.htm

[Ed C]

Very much enjoyed your blog which reminded me of my trip in 2003. Your remark about the Viennese speaking English brought a smile to my face as I recall being very proud of asking in German where the Theater an der Wien was, only to be told by an American couple they didn't speak German!!

You may like to read my experiences which included a recreation at the Theater an der Wien of the Dec 1808 concert.
www.lvbeethoven.co.uk/vienna2003.htm

Peter, your Vienna trip journal was one of my "primary sources" when doing research for this trip! You can't imagine how jealous I am of your 1808 concert recreation. In my last Vienna blog entry, probably Friday, I plan to list all my research sources for other pilgrims.

[Peter]

Peter, your Vienna trip journal was one of my "primary sources" when doing research for this trip! You can't imagine how jealous I am of your 1808 concert recreation. In my last Vienna blog entry, probably Friday, I plan to list all my research sources for other pilgrims.

I'm glad it was useful for you. They did repeat that concert in 2008 on Dec 22nd to mark the 200th anniversary which was more appropriate than in 2003!
Looking forward to your next installment.

[terry]

I went to Bonn years ago (1993) and Vienna in 1998, I know that as for Bonn the museum is very different, interactive...I should go again.
I liked Bonn a lot, Vienna of course is so magnificent...Classical music everywhere... While running after many B's houses, I hadn't even the time to visit neither the cathedral, or .. Schonbrunn!
I regret the Americans here are so far to come here. It's expensive for you.

[Ed C]

My final installment of my Beethoven Vienna pilgrimage journal is up on my blog. I also made a compilation of all 4 parts for easy reference. At the end I credited every site (including this one) which helped me and then I provided all my notes for the trip. I hope it's helpful for anyone who decides to give it a go. To my chagrin, now that I've organized my notes for Beethoven's sites in Vienna I'm actually more prepared to go now than I was before I left! I think I hit about half of what I could have, so perhaps there will be a second trip. I already started talking about Bonn to my wife .

Anyways it was a great trip and the highlights were easily the Beethovengang in Heiligenstadt, the guided tour of the Theater an der Wien and the Pasqualati House. The museum rooms themselves didn't really do that much for me, I would have preferred a reconstruction like they used to have at the Theater an der Wien but it was very cool to stand in front of the Streicher bust at Pasqualati. Almost literally "face to face" which Beethoven.

It was a mixed experience tracking down the sites of Beethoven's former homes. I was kind of dismayed at how many no longer existed - but when I hit one that was well-preserved (such as 64 Ginzingerstrasse or 2 Laimgrubengasse) it was pretty thrilling. I really felt I was in the "genius loci" then. Many of the other sites have conflicting reports as to whether Beethoven actually stayed at some of these sites. I visited even the doubtful ones "just in case". The 550-year old restaurant Griechebeisl is amazing as well. Vlad Dracula was still alive when Griechenbiesl first opened. The birth of the United States was as far away then as Star Trek is to us now!

I was really disappointed at not making it into the Hofburg Redoutensaal and the Lobkowitz Eroicasal but I guess that I will call ahead next time. Quite jealous of Phillip's Eroicasaal experience.

Tomorrow I have a final blog entry about my trip to the Schoenberg Center in Vienna which was quite different of course but quite excellent...apparently Schoenberg gave classes on Beethoven.

[Hollywood]

Nice blog Ed. When you arrived in Heiligenstadt with the U4 did you notice the world's longest row of flats the Karl Marx Hof? That's where I live. If I knew you were in town I would have invited you and your wife over for coffee or a cup of tea.

I'm glad that you enjoyed your visit to Vienna. Maybe the next time you plan to visit Vienna, that offer of a coffee or tea is still open.

[Peter]

Thanks very much Ed for sharing your experiences with your excellent blog. When I visited, there was no plaque to mark Beethoven's stay at Zum alten Blumenstock (just a reference on the back of the menu!) - I seem to recall the meal was nothing special!
Aside from the Beethoven and music connections I'd have to say Vienna is a very beautiful city with a first class public transport system - even the airport was a pleasant experience with good food!

[Ed C]

Thanks Hollywood! I really loved Heiligenstadt and we will definitely take you up on your offer next time we visit Vienna.

Peter, at the airport did you eat at that restaurant next to the gate? That was awesome. I noticed that they have a "smoking compartment" - basically a glass enclosed elevator-sized booth where people go to smoke. It looks like something out of Huxley's Brave New World

Finally I was wondering if anyone can answer this question about Vienna: Why does no one seem to need to pay for the public transportation (Ubahn, trams)? I mean - I still have my tickets which no one took or punched....?

[Hollywood]

Finally I was wondering if anyone can answer this question about Vienna: Why does no one seem to need to pay for the public transportation (Ubahn, trams)? I mean - I still have my tickets which no one took or punched....?

The public transport system here in Vienna is not free and there are many different types of tickets you can purchase. Everything from a single ticket to a one year pass. Most people buy the one month pass or a one week pass. There are no longer any ticket conductors who punch your ticket. Nowadays you are responsible for "punching" or validating your own ticket by inserting it into the blue boxes you'll find on the buses and trams. For the U-Bahns the blue boxes are located at the entrances of the stations. The "honor system" is used on our public transport system but we do have "ticket controllers" who are dressed in plain clothes so you have no idea who they are until someone without a ticket is stopped. This can cost you I think something like €75 and they won't let you go until you pay them. So Ed if you didn't validate any of your tickets you were VERY LUCKY you didn't get caught by a controller.

Here's a photo of the blue box that you punch your ticket in:

[Ed C]

Here's a photo of the blue box that you punch your ticket in:

Thanks for clearing that up Hollywood - they have an honor system in Portland Oregon too which I lived in as well, but there's no validation procedure. Here in NYC there's no honor OR system!

[Preston]

Congratulations to all who have been to Bonn and Vienna in search of Beethoven! I hope to make it there myself someday. Perhaps this summer if a loosely planned trip to visit Spain works out.

[terry]

Congratulations to all who have been to Bonn and Vienna in search of Beethoven! I hope to make it there myself someday. Perhaps this summer if a loosely planned trip to visit Spain works out.

Yours will surely be a long, far and fascinating yourney, as minetoi Tibet last spring!
Oh, Preston, you're still with us! Welcome as usually.

[Preston]

Thanks again, Terry.